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Wednesday, July 31, 2019

Part IV Summer Adventure 2019

Sunday, June 23: Coralville Iowa to Sheboygan Wisconsin

June 23 included many stops, at least two of which were little known, out-of-the-way places that will stand out in my memory for years to come. But to proceed through the day in order ...

Our first stop was the Herbert Hoover National Historic Site and Presidential Library Museum. The extremely tiny and modest two-room house stands on a preserved street, across from the Quaker Meeting House where the family worshiped. The site was infused with charm as well as history, and made for an enjoyable walk-around.







I may have mentioned that among the Tour of Honor bonuses, we were "collecting" doughboys. These history of these statues can be found here. They are relatively common and so likely look vaguely familiar; and once you focus on them, they are easy to spot!


We did a quick drive by of the National Motorcycle Museum, housed in what appeared to be an old supermarket (the Pharmacy sign was still visible at the entrance).


This next building was amazing!  Wouldn't you like to live here?


Probably not. This gorgeous structure is the Anamosa (Iowa) State Penitentiary. It was built by inmates in the late 1800s, although I suspect not willingly. The result is quite impressive -- from the outside at least!


The Iowa country side was lovely. We passed through small towns on our way to the Cascade Historic Limestone Silo. It is part of the Silos and Smokestacks National Heritage Area. I love that the NPS preserves more than just scenic areas and battlefields. The history of living and working is essential to understanding our past and I love that NPS has paid tribute to everyday life with Heritage Areas like this.

Note the "hoofprints"
All the flooding we encountered during the trip can be largely explained by the map below.



Mines of Spain was a particularly interesting site because just that morning I was reading about an environmental law issue that referenced the Supreme Court cases addressing Native American lands, mentioned in the signage. Learned a bit about Julien Dubuque too. His grave site is in the tower below.




My first time in Wisconsin!  Other than the cheesehead thing, Wisconsin had never left much of an impression on me. I understand why. Just like people, states that are exceptionally wonderful or awful stand out and have reputations that precede them. Wisconsin is just consistently and thoroughly pleasant and nice. Rolling hills, nice towns, and lots of dairy farms of course. Therefore, it doesn't attract a lot of attention, whether positive or negative. But we did find our two highlights of the day there.

















The first was the Dickeyville Grotto, in Dickeyville, Wisconsin. Jeff had put it on the itinerary not knowing exactly what we'd find, but what a find it was!  I can't even begin to describe it. So, I'm just posting lots of pictures.


Everything imaginable is used in the construction

Most but not all of the displays are religious

Front, back, sides -- everything completely decorated

Each saint had a different color theme


A birdhouse, I think



This area had Washington and Lincoln featured prominently, but it was impossible to get a shot that encompassed it all.



So that was the Grotto, and all I can say is "Wow!"

We did a drive by of Taliesin, a Frank Lloyd Wright structure that was actually his home. I knew of his ground-breaking architectural work but not his messy affairs, scandals, the arson-murder of his mistress (committed by a worker), and other tawdry details of his life. The Wikipedia entry on "Taliesin" can fill you in.

As usual, our Wisconsin crossing included a look at local life, a few ToH sites and various historic markers. We did a quick stop at Devil's Lake State Park as well, which was beautiful -- and from the long lines, apparently a very popular place to camp. We also stopped to read about the Baraboo Range, because it's not often you can see the one of the oldest physical features of the earth.


The second highlight of the day, perhaps even more unexpected than the grotto, was another religious site, but this one was a retreat.  Durward's Glen Retreat has a handful of buildings nestled into a lovely woodland. As we wandered the grounds, we were startled to see something moving across the otherwise still and quiet pond at a rapid rate with only a small protrusion above the water and a long wake. It was one of several otters we saw cruising the pond during our short visit. Birds and insects sang as we picked our way to the the glen where we got a much better view of the stream. And some stream it was. According the the signs, the serene and pleasant little creek can rise 10 feet in 10 minutes during flash flooding events. Happily, we did not experience that. All we experienced was a peaceful and interesting walk in an breathtakingly beautiful setting.




The potentially deadly stream

We also found my new favorite convenience store, Kwik Trip. Although Sheetz and some of the other places we stop have gotten better about offering fresh foods for "snacks" (which is usually all the food Jeff allows time for during the day), Kwik Trip had by far the best selection I've seen. Jeff was impressed too.

We ended our day in Sheboygan, WI. Unfortunately the only dinner option anywhere near our hotel at that hour was an Applebee's.

Monday, June 24 Sheboygan to Houghton MI

Such a smorgasbord of stuff today! Pestigo was the highlight, so we'll save that for a bit. In the meantime ....


A doughboy in a cemetery, right after the rain began.

"Late for a Date"



Near a monument to Father Marquette

Two Rivers, WI

Practicing for our 2020 trip?

Sculpture where you least expect it. 

Peshtigo was the tragedy you've never heard of. It was an enormous fire that burned the town and killed more people than died in the famous Chicago fire. But it happened the same night as Chicago burned and the news headlines focused there. So this small Midwestern city burned in obscurity. The cemetery carries the stories, and they are riveting.






Our day ended in Houghton. Our Super 8 sat on the water's edge, just a short walk from the Isle Royale National Park jumping off point for the ferry. We had a lovely stroll through town, a delicious pizza dinner, and some fine geocaching and sightseeing that evening.







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