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Saturday, April 20, 2019

8 of 17: A Motorcycle Tour of the Canadian Maritimes, Summer 2018 Northern Virginia to Nova Scotia, PEI, the Gaspé Peninsula and Back

6.28.18. Thursday.  Halifax, Nova Scotia to St. Louisbourg, Nova Scotia.

Left Halifax after making a stop at a stop at the port, that included two monuments to immigrants, both of which were rather odd depictions, and one of Samuel Cunard.




This one was the Team Strange bonus - a man running with a suitcase.




The days’ journey had us generally following the coast line out to Cape Breton, but the road included both ocean views and inland landscapes. Fun stops included the Barry Colpitts house. He is a folk artist (also sometimes called "outsider artist"). I had scoped this out early in our planning, but had forgotten exactly where we’d find it. We were zipping along on Rt. 7, and although I wasn’t looking for it, it was unmistakable when I spotted it. I called out and Jeff scooted onto the shoulder so I could run back to look more closely and take photos. It was still early morning. (In fact, we had thought to stop at the Black Sheep Art Gallery, also nearby, but although we saw the sign, it would still be hours until it opened). So, I didn’t attempt to enter Colpitts’ shop, but rather took some pictures of the house and yard from the road which illustrated his work. Fascinating!




We passed through the little town of Sherbrooke with its historical recreation village (more like Sturbridge Village, MA than Williamsburg, VA). We didn’t linger, but on a more conventional tourist route, this might have been a nice stopping place.



From there we headed north, across the inland, to Antigonish, and then to the Canso Causeway connecting Auld’s Cove and Port Hastings.

 

After crossing onto Cape Breton, we stopped at the Welcome Center where we found these wonderful signs memorializing works of literature in the locale of the action. Our first was for “No Great Mischief” by Alistair MacLeod.





We then stopped at a Canadian National Historic Site, at St. Peter’s Canal. While not spectacular in comparison to many of our other stops, there was a charm to it, with its boats moored canal side and the quietness of it. We then crossed to Battery Provincial park on the other side of the canal (really more of a manmade inlet) for a geocache and fabulous views (including of St. Peter's Canal).

 


We spent the night in Louisbourg at the Point of View Suites. Louisbourg is a quaint town whose primary business seems to be catering to tourists to the fort (which is a re-creation of the fort that once stood there). The place where we stayed is known for staging the “Beggars’ Banquet” with colonial dress – for everyone, not just the waiters – and we opted out. Not our thing. Nothing for me to eat anyway as the fixed dinner menu consisted of meat and seafood. Instead we headed into town and ate at a shabby-chic place that was very cute.

We did not have a room at Louisbourg. We had a suite! Our second story studio-condo type rental had a deck with a water view, a great sitting area and small kitchen, plus a comfy bed and bath. Lots of other motorcycles in the parking lot.

Taken from our balcony


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