1 of 17: A Motorcycle Tour of the Canadian Maritimes, Summer 2018 Northern Virginia to Nova Scotia, PEI, the Gaspé Peninsula and Back

Introduction and Index.

It’s taken months to finish documenting this 16-day, nearly 5000-mile motorcycle tour. The combination of me, Jeff, and the wonders of digital photography, yielded thousands of photos to sort, covering the magnificent and the mundane that we encountered. But, it was a joy to relive the trip while doing so. It was a fabulous experience!

Packed and ready to go!

We rode two-up on a BMW R1200GSA (hence, small luggage). I’m the pillion, so Jeff was solely responsible for our safe passage, which he carried out admirably, as always. Much of our trip was arranged around attempts to capture photos suggested by two motorcycle “grand tours” and visits to locations designated by geocachers as worth the visit. If you’re not into long-distance motorcycling, motorcycle “grand tours,” or geocaching these may seem like odd guideposts, but both the grand tours and geocaching tend to take you to interesting spots. Sometimes they are the same places that tourists following the “Top 10” will also visit, but often they cover local favorites or things that are simply interesting.

The Team Strange Melting Pot grand tour took us to statues of immigrants (specific ones designated by the tour organizers), towns with the name of a country (which were up to us to identify), and a search for the Liberty Bell replicas.  In the 1950s, fifty-five replicas of the famous bell were cast and then distributed around the country. Most are available to be visited.  Some have the crack painted on them, which I find rather funny. As you will read below, over the course of 2018, Jeff and I visited many of the ones on the east coast (some of them twice, for reasons explained below).
The Tour of Honor focuses primarily on war memorials. We did not have many of these on our trip, but we did have a few.

Geocaching was at our selection.  For those of you not familiar with this game, geocaches are hidden all over the world, and the information needed to find them is available on the web at Geocaching.com.  The number of “likes” indicates the ones that are particularly appreciated, either because of the location, the cleverness of the “hide,” or some other characteristic. With careful reading, geocaching can provide you with a curated tour of the favorite spots of locals in the areas you are visiting, some of which are well-known and many of which are not. Sometimes it's just a fun way to find your way around a place you don't know or to add an interesting challenge or fun memory to your day (see Part 11). Geocaching can also take you to places like lampposts in the parking lots of shopping malls. Hence, “careful reading” is important if you are using Geocaching.com to plan a tour of sights worth seeing.

In addition to the above, we visited places that appealed to one or both of us for various reasons, like arts and crafts destinations (for me), leading to a delightful hodge-podge of sights and very full days!

Home of artist Barry Colpitts

The logs are chronological, tracing the complete path of our journey, in 17 parts:

One: Introduction and Index

Two: 6.22.18.  Friday. Springfield, Virginia to Portsmouth, New Hampshire (via Maine), United States.
Three: 6.23.18. Saturday. Portsmouth, New Hampshire to Steuben, Maine.
Four: 6.24.18. Sunday. Stueben, Maine.
Five: 6.25.18. Monday. Stueben, Maine, U.S. to St. John, New Brunswick, Canada.
Six: 6.26.18.  Tuesday. St. John, New Brunswick to West Publico, Nova Scotia.
Seven: 6.27.18. Wednesday. West Publico, Nova Scotia to Halifax, Nova Scotia.
Eight: 6.28.18. Thursday.  Halifax, Nova Scotia to St. Louisbourg, Nova Scotia.
Nine: 6.29.18. Friday.  Louisbourg to Cheticamp, Nova Scotia (Cape Breton Island).
Ten: 6.30.18. Saturday.  Cheticamp, Nova Scotia to Georgetown, Prince Edward Island via the Cabot Trail.
Eleven: 7.1.18. Sunday. Georgetown to Tignish, Prince Edward Island. (Geocaching!)
Twelve: 7.2.18. Monday. Tignish, Prince Edward Island to Parrsboro, New Brunswick. (includes the Bottle House)
Thirteen: 7.3.18. Tuesday. Parrsboro, New Brunswick to Perce’s Rock, Quebec.
Fourteen: 7.4.18. Wednesday.  Percé’s Rock, Quebec to Revière-du-Loup, Quebec; Gaspe peninsula.
Fifteen: 7.5.18. Thursday. Rivière-du-Loup, Québec to Wilton, Maine, US. (Includes Parc de la Frontière and Four Corners)
Sixteen: 7.6.18. Friday. Wilton, Maine to Bennington, Vermont.
Seventeen: 7.7.18. Saturday. Bennington, Vermont to Springfield, Virginia (home).

2 of 17: A Motorcycle Tour of the Canadian Maritimes, Summer 2018 Northern Virginia to Nova Scotia, PEI, the Gaspé Peninsula and Back

6.22.18.  Friday. Springfield, Virginia to Portsmouth, New Hampshire (via Maine), United States.

We departed from North Springfield, Virginia in the early morning, bound for our first night’s stop just across the New Hampshire border in Kittery, Maine. While this was mostly intended to be a day of hard riding, we broke it up with bonus hunting for the Tour of Honor and the Team Strange Melting Pot rallies plus some geocaching.

The geocaching challenge that Jeff set out for us was to find geocaches in each of 10 different states or territories (i.e., District of Columbia) on the same day. So, we started with a bit of DC history: a rain pipe marked “Alexandria DC” in Alexandria VA (formerly Alexandria DC under the original boundaries of DC), and the eastern most boundary stone for DC. We proceeded north via Maryland (nice historic markers and memorials at the rest areas, including one to women in the military), Delaware, New Jersey, and New York, geocaching along the way, to Connecticut, for its state liberty bell (a Melting Pot bonus). We had a fun unscheduled geocache at a Hudson River overlook. Jeff stopped for the view and I assumed it was for a cache, since there was one showing on the map; appropriately named “Love is a Wild Ride.” Jeff didn’t know there was a geocache there but enjoyed taking photos of me doing the limbo under low hanging tree limbs as I scrambled to get it.

We stopped for a very quirky virtual geocache in Manchester CT commemorating 9-11 victims. The site was a jumbled collection of memorial markers for fire and rescue people, with a variety of bells, call boxes, fire hydrants, stone markers, bushes, railings, and flags -- more memorials per square foot than a cemetery, commemorating heroic events and people, living and dead, plus dogs. Very odd. Touching and moving. But odd.

We hit rain very early in the trip, and then terrible traffic in Connecticut. Connecticut’s Liberty Bell replica is in the Connecticut State Capitol and we arrived only 5 minutes before closing. We whizzed into the restricted parking area reserved for the state representatives, which was closest to the entrance and otherwise almost empty except for a news team using the Capitol building as a backdrop. The guards were quite friendly, and notwithstanding the late hour, they let us in and directed us to the bell.

Connecticut State Capitol

We had recently realized that we had erred on all our prior attempts to complete liberty bell bonuses by failing to get a receipt from the town where the bell was located, as required by the rules. (The bells are replicas, so you can’t easily tell them apart; hence the receipt as proof of the location.) So, this time we found a local Dunkin Donuts and got our receipt. Many miles later and far too late to turn back, (after I reread the rules yet again) we realized that Liberty Bell bonuses required (1) a photo of the bell with the flag in it; (2) a photo of the bike and the flag, if the bike wasn’t in the first picture; and (3) a receipt from the town where the bell was located in order to verify the visit. We had only the photo of the bell and flag, taken inside the Capitol, and the receipt! So, Connecticut became the FIFTH state (preceded by Virginia, West Virginia, New Jersey, and Kentucky) where we visited a bell but failed to complete all the requirements to claim it for Melting Pot points.

Mass Pike traffic was also terrible, so we took a round-about way to New Hampshire. Jeff pointed out that one of Massachusetts’ virtues is that it’s not a big state, especially, north to south. Having received 7 of my approximately 7.5 to 8 years of higher education in Massachusetts, I can attest that Massachusetts has other virtues too, plus a number of not so wonderful features.

We headed to Concord NH for its Liberty Bell and a nearby virtual geocache (John Gilbert Winnant memorial). It was hard to reach the right location because of a street festival that caused us to be routed in circles for a bit. The bell was on the state house grounds, but it was pitch black, so we criss-crossed the lawn until we practically stumbled on it in the dark. But, we got our picture of the bell with the flag and then a picture of the bike with the flag and then the virtual geocache. On the way out of town we noted there was a movie playing in the middle of the main street, as part of the festival, with people seated on cushions in the road. What a great idea to do it in the street instead of the lawn – no (or few) mosquitos! Happily chatting, we left Concord.

Were you paying attention to what we did? We obviously weren’t. We left without a Concord receipt! Fortunately, we were just across the city border when I gasped, realizing we had just blown our sixth state Liberty Bell attempt. Jeff slammed into a U-turn so fast that I nearly got whiplash. Receipt secured. The first bell that we completed correctly! (Fortunately, we happened to have bike photos at the location in Connecticut, and we were able to use one of our two allowed “alibis” to claim Connecticut. Later in the year we returned to the West Virginia and Kentucky bells and did those correctly on the second attempt. We also got Ohio, and on this trip, Maine, Vermont and New York.)

Earlier, our hotel in Kittery ME called to say it had a plumbing leak and it was moving us to the Days’ Inn (a 1.5-star Yelp-rated Days Inn) down the road. Then the clerk called back to say that – since the same company owned it – we had been relocated to the Hampton Inn in Portsmouth. All complementary. Win! We like Hamptons but had by-passed this one because it was expensive.
We got to Portsmouth late at night, but still needed to cross into Maine to get the last of our 10 geocaches before midnight. Found one at the Maine welcome center, just over the border. Done! 10 jurisdictions in one day!

Then back to New Hampshire for some late night grub at IHOP and the Hampton Inn. It was a perfectly normal Hampton Inn, which is to say, totally satisfactory, except for the slow, late night check-in service. The only night clerk was off getting a crib when we arrived, and the door was locked, but another guest let us in. Eventually we got to our room and collapsed after a long day of riding.

3 of 17: A Motorcycle Tour of the Canadian Maritimes, Summer 2018 Northern Virginia to Nova Scotia, PEI, the Gaspé Peninsula and Back

6.23.18. Saturday. Portsmouth, New Hampshire to Steuben, Maine.

Headed up the coast. We planned to spend the next two nights with my brother and sister-in-law at their new (as of 2017) Maine get-away. Since I wanted to arrive at Maryanne & John’s by 4:00 p.m., we did a lot of highway riding rather than take the more scenic coastal route.

We stopped in Freeport ME for the iconic boot photo and geocache opportunity at L.L. Bean – my first visit there. (Despite a lot of chatter about late night college treks, we never made it that far north during my years at Smith). Heading inside (for the restrooms) a man held the door open for me and commented that he had the same kind of helmet. After chatting a bit, I learned that he was from the Virginia suburbs of DC and had just ridden his bike up to his summer place in Maine. I asked if he was a long-distance rider and after mulling over the question, he said, “I guess so.” Jeff’s assessment was that he apparently was not, since he clearly had no idea what I meant.

We made a short stop in Brunswick Maine (virtual geocache at Bowdoin College) and then cruised Camden ME because Jeff remembered it as charming. It was! A definite come-back-to spot (16 Bay View, Hotel Camden!).

Also stopped in Lincolnville with its beach, cannon, seaside restaurant, ice cream shop, and art galleries. A couple walked pass the bike and the woman – maybe 65 to 70 years old – stopped and began checking out the bike as her husband continued on. As we approached the bike, she remarked what a great-looking bike it was. She said that she and her husband used to ride (she had a Yamaha and he had a Hog), but stopped because they felt that other motorists weren’t considerate. Both of her sons ride. One has a Ducati. As she spoke to us, she barely took her eyes off the bike!

Another stop was at a cemetery in Bucksport, where a town notable, Colonel Jonathan Buck, who died in 1795, has an unusual stain on his memorial -- shaped like a boot. The theories as to why include a curse from a woman he accused of witchcraft.


Continued on to Steuben and managed to maneuver the rough road up to John & Maryanne’s. However, I gave Jeff the wrong house number and the GPS stopped us at yet a third location (a driveway that belongs to their friends, Bonnie & Mike). After a quick phone call, we ended up in the right yard. John has the house number painted as an interstate symbol, so it’ll be easy to find next time. There is also a lovely rhododendron near the foot of the drive and a daisy and lupine field near the garage.

Great house with stunning views! We opted for the loft guest room. Relaxing evening, tons of snacks and a great dinner with lots of red wine (that gave me a headache the next morning!).

4 of 17: A Motorcycle Tour of the Canadian Maritimes, Summer 2018 Northern Virginia to Nova Scotia, PEI, the Gaspé Peninsula and Back

6.24.18. Sunday. Stueben, Maine.

Spent the day with John & Maryanne. Introduced them to geocaching with a guard rail cache and then a terrific visit to the town cemetery which was also a geocache location.

The locals have a custom of hanging caps near the tombstones – in one case, two caps hanging from a set of deer antlers stuck into the ground. Found the geocache, the graves of Robert & Faith’s family (the people that help with maintenance of John & Maryanne’s place), and a huge memorial to a young girl killed in a traffic accident that was both striking and very sad.

Then off to Acadia National Park – first stopping at a point across from a lighthouse near a Navy facility (for a cache we didn’t find), then Hoosick Point for an earthcache and a virtual, and then to Mount Desert Island, the the top of Cadillac Mountain, and Thunder Hole. Learned a lot about inclusions and erratics (geological). The scenery en route was stunning. Especially the lupine!

Lighthouse

An erratic at Hoosick Point sitting on an inclusion

Cadillac Mountain, Acadia National Park

Thunder Hole, Acadia National Park

Back to John & Maryanne’s house for dinner, laundry and packing.  

5 of 17: A Motorcycle Tour of the Canadian Maritimes, Summer 2018 Northern Virginia to Nova Scotia, PEI, the Gaspé Peninsula and Back

6.25.18. Monday. Stueben, Maine, U.S. to St. John, New Brunswick, Canada.

We got an early start from John & Maryanne's on a grey day with intermittent drizzle.

Headed north searching out various points of interest on our way to St. John’s. A lovely fishing village yielded colorful pictures of lobster traps and wharfs near a small park in the middle of the road with a bell mounted in the center.

Visited the eastern most point in the US which had a picturesque lighthouse and a small but interesting museum.

Then on to Campabello Island, intending to geocache and then take the Deer Island ferry to New Brunswick. Change in plan! The Canadian border officer informed us the ferry wasn’t running. So, we crossed onto Campabello Island, stopped at FDR’s summer house for a geocache (near the water, on the lovely grounds of the estate) and then crossed back into the US where the US border agent insisted we had to remove our helmets and interrogated us like we might have illegal immigrants in the top case! I observed (to Jeff) that she should have known we were barely in Canada. Jeff was willing to give her the benefit of the doubt that she might not have that information. With no ferry, we headed toward Calais to cross the border there.

FDR Campobello Island Home

The border at Calais

Our bonus for taking the long way around was our detour to the St. Croix International Historic Site. St. Croix Island is in Canada, but the NPS site is in the US. The docent did a great job explaining the history of the first French settlement led by Pierre Dugua (spelled differently at different historic sites), and the settlers’ disastrous winter in which about half the party died of scurvy. Fun fact:  moose meat has vitamin C in it from the cedar bark the moose eat. Unfortunately, the settlers didn’t have any moose meat until the Indians came and rescued them the following March. There’s a nice path to a river outlook with statues and interpretive signs. The history is known through the diaries of Samuel Champlain. This unplanned stop turned out to be the perfect jumping off place for the “Evangeline Trail” part of our journey which came later.

Once at the Calais border station, we both noted a sign stating that Canada and US do share information, confirming my assumption that the last agent at Campabello was just being a hard ass and could have easily tracked when and where we last crossed. Nothing is private anymore, and certainly not a border crossing.

We crossed the border and headed for St. John, New Brunswick. Our first stop in St. John was at park above the reversing falls with monolithic sculptures. The park was donated by the Irving family, the local economic force. Then we went down to the water’s edge, observed the point where the river and tides met (just turning), found a geocache, and on the way up, stopped to observe a groundhog (or something like a groundhog? I don’t know my marmots) enjoying his lunch. Then we stopped at a cemetery (for a geocache of course) and enjoyed wandering about the memorials.

We arrived at our hotel in St. John while it was still daylight, so we reversed the planned order of our walking tour. We took a lovely path along the water’s edge, picked up a geocache, observed the band playing on a stage in front of a row of restaurants, a statute of a moose and other public art, caught a glimpse of Theodore the Tugboat at anchor (a star of my sons’ childhood Saturday mornings), and then settled into the Big Tide Brewing Company for dinner. There, we eves-dropped on what appeared to be roller derby team on an extended losing streak getting pep-talked by its coach. We completed our walking tour of St. John after dinner, passing by the Three Sisters Lantern and a lovely park, picking up some geocaches on the way (although the last was a DNF, despite extensive searching).